We approach Capoeira as a tool of ancestral remembrance–a ritual that reminds of the struggles of our ancestors. We find in its physicality a comportment that is dynamic and creative–a combative genius that lends itself to a game that is both wonderful and challenging, and a fight that is unpredictable and powerful. Capoeira is a means for a fuller realization of ourselves, that is, it teaches us a way of being present in the world that draws on the strength of our ancestors, applying this ancient wisdom to the challenges that we face today.
Museu Nacional da Cultura Afro-brasileira. We set out on Saturday to visit our second museum, the Museu Nacional da Cultura Afro-brasileira. This was an excellent trip that featured art from Projeto Afro–an exhibit that focuses on works from various Afro-Brazilian visual artists. The pieces were very moving and included works in multiple mediums–paintings, sculptures, and audio-visual performance. Themes of history, resistance, exclusion, colonization and decolonization, and societal progression and regression were all explored.
Some particularly compelling works that I saw were sculptures by Rubem Valentim and Mestre Didi and paintings by Guilhermina Augusti, Massuelen Cristina, and Moisés Patricio. These pieces explored African and Afro-Brazilian spirituality, aesthetics, as well as histories of racialized subordination and resistance.
The other major exhibit titled, “Òná Írín: Caminho de Ferro” was a collection of sculptures by Nádia Taquary that explored various themes related to Ogum, the Orixa of iron, warriorhood, technology, and the forging of the path. It featured various visually striking works including a statue of Mami Wata and an oríkì (a praise poem) to Ogum.
Memorial das Baianas We also visited the Memorial das Baianas, a small museum located in Pelourinho near the Elevador Lacerda. This museum focused on the role of Afro-Brazilian women within their cultural traditions. Exhibits explored the history of Black women going back to the era of enslavement, their roles as keepers of tradition, in addition to their labor and economic impact. Further, there were beautiful representations of traditional clothing from across time that were also displayed.
On Thursday, August 7, 2025, my wife and I arrived in Salvador, Bahia. I went there to study Afro-Brazilian history and culture generally and to augment my knowledge of Capoeira specifically. While I had been to Brazil prior to this trip, this was my first trip to Bahia and my wife’s first trip to Brazil.
Our agenda was, over the next seven days, to visit several museums and cultural sites. Additionally, I hoped to have the opportunity to visit the academies of several mestres to deepen my knowledge of the movement, music, philosophy, and history of Capoeira.
Friday, August 8, 2025
Casa das Histórias de Salvador Our first museum excursion in Salvador was to the Casa das Histórias de Salvador to see an exhibit on the Malê Revolt. The museum contained exhibits on the history of Salvador, from colonial times to now. Herein, the history of Afro-Brazilians in shaping the city and its culture were indelible.
One of the highlights of the museum was a film on the Orixá tradition, specifically the various religious festivals that take place in Salvador. This film was colorful and celebratory, highlighting the female orixá and their significance to life and community.
The top floor contained the exhibit about the Malê Revolt, a rebellion that was staged in Salvador in 1835, and was initiated, primarily, by muslims who were members of the Hausa ethnic group. In some ways, the exhibit was as much about the history of the revolt as it was a space for artists to reflect on the meaning and symbolism of the revolt itself. Historical events provide ways to examine key cultural themes and ideas, particularly those which are illuminated by the incident itself. To this end, there was a timeline of the revolt, along with other elements about its historical impact, (some of which were shared in other parts of the museum). However, most of the pieces were creative interpretations of Afro-Brazilian resistance and resilience.
There was also some brief discussion about the role of Islam during the revolt. This included references to the use of talismans containing Quranic verses, the use of Arabic script in the rebels’ communications, and so forth.
Overall, the exhibit was a good reminder of the intimate relationship between oppression and revolt–that the former almost always engenders the latter. Further, it demonstrated the ways in which African people sought to adapt their cultural knowledges to resist European domination. Lastly, it expressed the unfinished nature of this and many other struggles focused on the redemption of the African world.
Monumento Arena da Capoeira As we were riding in an Uber the day before, we happened to notice a very large collection of sculptures situated around a large sphere representing Capoeira. Thus, after visiting the Mercado Modelo on Friday, we paid a visit to this space–which is just across from the market.
Completed in 2024, the Monumento Arena da Capoeira is a large spherical object encircled by statues of eight Capoeira masters: Mestre Besouro, Mestre Bimba, Mestre Caicara, Mestre Canjinquinha, Mestre Gato Preto, Mestre Noronha, Mestre Pastinha, and Mestre Waldemar. At its center is an elevated, circular platform featuring statues of two additional masters, Mestre Aberre and Mestre Totonho, playing Capoeira. It is a beautiful monument and a fitting homage to the legacy of these great teachers.
